30.1km

I have leftover salad, risotto, and some panettone for breakfast.

I leave at 9.30am to a 2°C bright sunny day. The route takes you back across the river from Portomarín by another bridge. The water is still, with clear reflections. Low mist hangs on the opposite side.

There’s a short complementario route detour, which I take. I ascend the hill, away from Portomarín and the river, back into the forest. Autumn leaves pad the ground, and there’s beautiful birdsong all around me.

It’s enjoyable going through the forest again, even if for a short while. The route joins back the main Camino on a gravel path next to a road.

There’s a steady incline after the town of Toxibó. I am already dreaming of a café con leche.

The sun is behind heavy cloud cover, so it’s not too good for photos. Today’s countryside landscapes are “ordinary” compared to some other parts of Camino. But I am still appreciating every moment, being in this much space on my own. It’s something I won’t get to have soon in Singapore.

Edoardo catches up before Castromaior and we walk together. It’s a steady uphill after the town. I’m slightly regretting my carbo-loading with the risotto this morning as I’m feeling a bit bloated. The top of the hill is slightly windy, so I put on my rain jacket.

To our relief, there’s finally a place at Hospital Da Cruz when Edoardo and I reach at 12.50pm. But the bar is closing at 1pm as the owner is going for his vaccination. I get a café con leche and use the toilet. Enrique, then Ingrid, then Gerlinde, come in right after and get quick drinks too.

I slow down behind the rest as I take photos. We pass through a couple of quiet towns and cow farms. At Airexe, I arrive right behind. Edoardo and Enrique are moving on, but Ingrid is staying behind and asks if I would like to have some food. Never one to reject an offer to eat, we settle into an old-style restaurant, where we have garbanzos (chickpeas) soup and coffee. Gerlinde comes in after and joins us.

Ingrid and I are feeling strong and so we decide we want to pass Palas de Rei, the typical stop, and go to Casanova instead. Gerlinde says she will do so also.

There won’t be any shops or restaurants in Casanova, so we’ll have to bring some food there. When we reach Palas de Rei, we para llevar (takeaway) bocadillos de lomo con queso (pork loin with cheese sandwiches). We enjoy freshly squeezed orange juice while waiting for it to be prepared. At a small open supermercado, we get a can of conserva sardinas (preserved sardines) and chocolate pastries. I also get some fruits and chocolate for tomorrow.

At 7.20pm, we step into the Xunta albergue. Out from the dark common room emerges Antonio, and we hug. He wanted a quieter place tonight.

We have our packed simple dinner, with Ingrid’s store of camomile tea. There is not much in the way of utensils here, but there are three cups and a conduction stove. Together with my titanium cup for heating and drinking, we have enough.